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Old 07-16-2011, 09:50 PM
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First off lets start I am AD Air Force and got an assignment to Fairchild AFB in Feb 2012. I will be heading up to the Spokane area in December to drop off two vehicles and the coming back in January with my family. My wife has a 05 Unlimited Rubicon and I have an 03 Rubicon.
So that being said lets start off with some basic info on my Jeep. It is an 03 Rubicon w/ 35x12.50x15 BFG MT KM2’s on Walker Evans Beadlocks, Rockhard rear bumper/tire carrier and plate holder, Genright front bumper w/stinger & extra DOM, PS trail cage with extra tube work, Warn diff guards, WJ steering/brake conversion, JKS brackets and parts for the conversion, Skidrow steering skid, Warn xd9000i, Alloy USA axle shafts F & R and seals, Superior 4.88 gears, York OBA system, 750W power inverter, Cobra 75WSX Radio, MCAI, 62mm TB, Tuffy glove box, Marine Diehard Platinum , and the list goes on & on & on.
So my jeep was in need of a suspension overhaul and I decided to go with the GenRight Legend Extreme kit. I opted for the Teraflex rear truss and T-case skid, steps on the rockers, flares for the corners, and remote reservoirs on the CO’s. I am gonna keep the 44's for now while I save my pennies for new axles.

On to the build…….
This is the Jeep before I started.


First I started by pulling the rear wheels, flares, & wheel well liners.

Then you have to modify the EVAP system to make room. I followed the write up as shown in this link.
Rubicon Owners Forum - View topic - EVAP Relocation - Writeup w/ pictures

You have to do a little cutting inside of each rear wheel well as shown in the pics.





Last edited by Doodoob; 07-16-2011 at 10:10 PM.
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Old 07-16-2011, 09:51 PM
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Once all the cutting and painting is done there you have to put the corners up and clamp them in place. Once clamped you have to mark your new opening and bolt holes.



Once the corners are installed you have to center the flares and weld them in place.



I also used one of the bolt holes to secure the flare/corner to the rocker as well as a tab.


The rockers are fairly straight forward. You just raise them up with a jack, mark the holes once it is in the proper position, lower them drill the holes, install the rivnuts where needed, bolt them on.

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Old 07-16-2011, 09:52 PM
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Be careful, I had a bolt break while installing one of the rivnuts and it scratched the paint pretty good.

Once the rockers are bolted in you have to remove the corners, weld the flares all the way, and paint them, then reinstall.
Now its time to move onto the gas tank. The following pick is the space behind the diff to the Kilby skid.

When removing be careful so this doesn’t happen.

I had to use some high strength epoxy on this.
GenRight changed design again on the tanks. I highly reccomend you wait to put the spacer in until the rear CO mounts are installed.


Spacer installed.

Cut the exhaust.

Raise the tank once you swaaped the lines and pump over.


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Old 07-16-2011, 09:54 PM
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Now its time to rip out the axles, cut off the brackets and clean the frame.





I rented a plasma to aid in this. It was fast and a lot easier than a saw zall and angle grinders.
Now you have to bolt weld the truss into place.


We welded one side of the control arms up to get an idea of angles and to make measuring easier.

We swaped the calipers from side to side to make clearance a lot easier.
I mounted my lowers out as far as possible until it was a straight line between them and the frame mounts. Once they are tacked in place set your pinion angle again you have to measure for your control arms. Cut, weld, and bolt them in. Now you can cycle the suspension.

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Old 07-16-2011, 09:54 PM
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For the rear ebrake I cut the bracket and re welded it for clearance.



On the CO mounts I set the ride height, clamped the upper mount into position perpendicular to the control arm and put the lower mount out as far as possible on the axle.




The rear sway bar………there are no directions other than a drawing for this in the kit. However it is fairly simple. We notched out the tub above the frame so the tube would sit as high and as far forward against the body as possible. It sits directly above the e-brake bracket. We welded the tabs to the inside of the frame, then slid the tube through, centered it and welded it in place, put the torsion bar and bushings in, bolt the arms on and it’s a perfect fit. I did trim a minor amount off of the ends of the arms and the CO bucket for clearance.

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Old 07-16-2011, 09:55 PM
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Moving on to the front axle. Once you put the CA mounts on the frame, we put the axle on stands under the jeep, set the ride height, pinion/castor, connected the steering, and started measuring for control arms. Cut, weld, and bolt on the lowers.



There is a Johnny joint that you use for the stock axle.

You need to fab the front upper and bolt it in. Then you must tack in the track bar mounts and fab up the track bar.



Now its time to cycle the suspension. Once you are sure it all clears its time to start on the front CO mounts.
For me I used my marks for the plum bob to start with. I then got the feet mounts in position and tacked them in place. We then eyeballed the inner fender and drew a pattern to cut out.

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Old 07-16-2011, 09:56 PM
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I did have to cut the cruise control bracket a little for clearance.

Now its time to move on to the axle.



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Old 07-16-2011, 09:56 PM
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Once it is all in place you need to cycle it again and set up you bump stops. I reused the factory stops in the front and rear.



For the Resevoir mounts in the rear I used a flat piece of 3/16” x 1”.


The fronts went on the grill support rods.

Rear brake lines

The fuel and brake line routing to the rear. I reused the factory plastic brackets for keeping them separated and welded some 1”x1” square tube to the frame.

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Old 07-16-2011, 09:59 PM
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I had to mod the air tank mounts so it would barely fit.


Reused the old exhaust, just had to get a 2 ¼” to 2 1/8” adapter.


Last edited by Doodoob; 07-16-2011 at 10:16 PM.
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Old 07-16-2011, 10:01 PM
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I moved the front brake lines and took some final measurements. Here is where I ended after getting the ride height dialed in.........




Wheel base 100"
Castor 7.5'
Front Pinion angle 6.5'
Front DS Angle 12'
Front DS Length 42"
Transmision/T-case skid clearance 17 3/4"
Rear DS Angle 19'
Rear Pinion Angle 17'
Rear DS length 19"

This is not a complete how to build thread but I think it will answer a few questions. If you want to know anything just ask. It took me almost four weeks to complete this. But it was only because three of them I didnt have any help. My friend Brandon from Albuquerque came out to Las Vegas to help me do all of the major cutting and welding. I put on some spidertrax wheel spacers to help with the clearance. Throughout this whole build there was only one mistake that was made that had any impact. When we did the front hoop support bar and the radiator overflow bottle was not installed. So I had to go get a Moroso overflow bottle PN 63657 and clamp 63401.The driveshafts were lengthened at Adams Driveshaft in Henderson. I got to say a PLASMA is a must for a project like this.

Last edited by Doodoob; 07-16-2011 at 10:16 PM.
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